In the battle against climate change, the quest for new, sustainable materials is a unique and complex challenge. Unlike other industries that can often innovate at a brisk pace, material science—especially when aiming for eco-friendly alternatives—faces hurdles that make it stand out. In the battle against climate change, the quest for new, sustainable materials is a unique and complex challenge. Unlike other industries that can often innovate at a brisk pace, material science—especially when aiming for eco-friendly alternatives—faces hurdles that make it stand out.In the battle against climate change, the quest for new, sustainable materials is a unique and complex.
The story of petrochemicals is a testament to human ingenuity and industrial prowess. From the late 19th century to today, petrochemicals have revolutionized material science. Initially derived from the refining of crude oil, these chemicals gave birth to a range of materials that have defined modern living.
Polyester and nylon, two iconic polymers, took decades to perfect. Polyester emerged in the 1940s, while nylon, introduced in the 1930s, became a fashion staple with its sleek, durable properties. For instance, Prada’s nylon bag launched in 1984 became a symbol of modern fashion whilst Issey Miyake's Pleats Please collection showcased polyester's versatility in 1993.
Plastic’s rise was equally transformative. Its rapid production and ability to be molded into various shapes meant it often didn’t even look like plastic—sometimes even feeling like fabric or metal. The sheer number of applications, from packaging to automotive parts, is staggering.
Plastics are produced through a process called polymerization, where monomers—mainly from petrochemical sources—are combined to create polymers. Chemical plants with pipework and processes sprawling the size of city blocks have extensive capabilities to produce plastics at a very large scale. Building and operating a chemical plant with all its equipment is an expensive endeavor. However, this size allows them to produce vast quantities of material so they can be sold at a lower cost, a concept known as economy of scale.
One key player in the plastic world is polyurethane, a versatile polymer used in everything from Spandex to insulation. Think of the humble kitchen sponge, the stretchy jersey, car sealants, leather coatings, and even the waterproofing on top of your umbrella. It’s known for its flexibility and durability, making it a popular choice in many industries.
Despite their advantages, we are just beginning to understand the downsides of petrochemicals. Toxicity, large carbon footprint, and waste generation are the polluting points we focus on at Matereal. Polyurethane, for instance, requires isocyanates in its processing—a group of chemicals known for their harmful effects on health and the environment.
Opaque supply chains further complicate matters. It’s often difficult to trace the direct path of a product from oil well to production through to disposal because of global processing stages. This lack of transparency makes it hard to assess the full extent of the material environmental impact, and raises issues about social issues along the chain too.
Enter biofabrication—a groundbreaking approach that harnesses biological processes to create materials. As noted in the report “Understanding Biomaterial Innovations” by Biofabricate (2020), biofabricated materials are complex and take longer to develop and scale. They represent a new generation of material innovation, blending expertise from various fields like synthetic biology, microorganism engineering, and textile design.
Unlike traditional petrochemical companies like DuPont or BASF, which had massive resources, these new multidisciplinary startups are pushing boundaries with limited financial and physical resources but high innovation potential. This coming together of diverse disciplines has enabled the creation of materials from novel feedstocks with unique properties.
Synthetic biology has shown promise, but scaling it for widespread use remains challenging due to high feedstock costs and limited availability. Current feedstocks like algae and seaweed are produced at much smaller scales compared to traditional crops such as corn or linseed, making them less cost-effective. Again, this is where economies of scale become crucial.
At Matereal, we are accelerating the adoption of biofabricated (as well as biobased) materials by incorporating them into our products. While we are not a synthetic biology company, our Polaris™ platform leverages advances in synthetic biology by integrating synthetically engineered biology inputs with chemistry.
One of the biggest challenges in material innovation is the “valley of death”—the difficult transition from a successful pilot project to large-scale commercial production. Petrochemicals benefited from decades of revenue accredited to simple petroleum products like kerosene, gasoline, and diesel. Alongside this revenue, they could invest and experiment with R&D before they launched other mainstream products. Large-scale facilities allowed for economies of scale, making production efficient and cost-effective.
New materials often require entirely new supply chains and manufacturing processes. Unlike software or hardware, materials don’t have a “minimum viable product.” They need to be continuously developed and tested, and scaling them involves overcoming hurdles like capital requirements, reliability, and consistency.
The fashion industry, with its rapid pace and ever-changing trends, adds another layer of complexity. Fashion demands materials that can be developed and scaled quickly. Traditional supply chains, optimized for petrochemicals and natural materials, may not be suitable for new types of sustainable materials, necessitating the creation of entirely new systems.
The fashion industry, driven by fast-changing trends and consumer demands, operates at a pace that challenges traditional supply chains. Fashion requires materials that can be rapidly developed and scaled to meet tight deadlines and evolving aesthetics. Unlike other sectors, fashion maintains a direct connection to consumers, enabling it to continually reinvent the stories behind its products. Pioneers like Miuccia Prada and Issey Miyake redefined the use of synthetic fabrics as previously mentioned. But fashion's power extends beyond aesthetics—it's deeply tied to psychology and culture, influencing perceptions of identity, belonging, and values.
Fashion has the unique ability to test, iterate, and implement new concepts faster than most industries, offering fertile ground for material innovation to thrive. This is why Matereal began in this industry: to capitalize on its dynamism and deep consumer engagement. Existing supply chains, optimized for petrochemicals and natural fibers, are often inadequate for newer materials, which require their own systems for production, distribution, and application. To combat this, we have ensured our technology integrates into existing manufacturing equipment, creating a better supply for chains that already exist.
AI is playing a critical role in advancing material science. Unlike software, which can iterate quickly, materials require significant time and resources to develop. AI helps speed up this process by optimizing material properties and production methods, allowing for quicker adjustments and innovations. It’s a key tool in achieving the flexibility and performance needed to match or surpass established materials like polyurethane.
The fight for sustainable materials isn’t just about developing eco-friendly products. It’s about ensuring that the entire supply chain—production, processing, and disposal—is as green as possible. This approach, known as intersectional climate justice, considers the broader impacts of material production on both the environment and communities. It requires collaboration across the supply chain and between various stakeholders to create holistic, sustainable solutions.
The quest for new materials in the climate fight is a complex and multi-faceted challenge. While petrochemicals have dominated material science for decades, the shift towards sustainable alternatives presents unique hurdles. However, innovations like biofabrication and advancements in AI are paving the way for a greener future.
For example, Polaris™ by Matereal is a promising breakthrough. It’s a biobased alternative to polyurethane that significantly reduces pollution and toxicity. By integrating AI into its R&D process, Matereal can rapidly optimize production and develop materials that meet both environmental and performance standards.
In the end, the fight for sustainable materials is about more than just creating greener products—it's about transforming the entire industry to be more responsible and equitable. As we continue to push the boundaries of material science, we move closer to a future where our innovations do good for both people and the planet.
